Tour de la Resistance — a gravel bikepacking loop above lake Annecy

The three day Tour de la Resistance is an immersive extension of the single day la Resistance gravel event, a ride created to honour the men and women of the resistance and their last stand on the plateau de Glières during the Second World War. Which is unfortunately no longer running as an event. It’s a bikepacking light Tour, aimed at those who prefer to travel with less gear, whilst still being able to enjoy a multi-day adventure amongst the stunning peaks above Lake Annecy.

There’s no need to carry any camping equipment as each stage stops at a mountain refuge with stunning views across their surrounding landscapes. As each refuge offers a hearty dinner and breakfast and with a number of refuelling options along the route, you won’t have to carry much food either. Water top ups are plentiful too.

It’s a gravel bike adventure that starts outside café Gisle in the lakeside village of Talloires on the eastern shore of Lake Annecy. The café offers a range of coffees and food options to suit all diets and appetites, whether you’re after something savoury or sweet. The cake options have been personally tested and are recommended. They’re perfect for a well earned snack at the top of any of the big climbs – of which there are a few over the three days!

On this Tour, you’re never that far from Annecy as the crow flies, the furthest being a mere 35 kilometres (22 mi). You’ll be surprised at the number of tracks less travelled to discover within this compact area of deep valleys and high peaks east of Annecy. You’ll find yourself in some of the more popular spots to refuel before venturing off again into the wilds.

The route is ‘only’ 272 kilometres (169 mi), but is not to be underestimated. Maximising the visual experience of this landscape does mean a significant amount of climbing amongst the tight knit peaks and valleys. Over the course of the three days, you’ll accumulate a significant 9,580 metres (31,430 ft) of ascent, but also enjoy the same in descent too, of course. Many of the descents, both road and gravel, will leave you with an exhilarated grin at the bottom.

The Tour is a mix of some more well known cols and those that are rarely visited by the masses, where you’ll barely come across another soul. The col de Forclaz above Lake Annecy is super popular, but well worth a visit, where you can see paragliders launch from the mountainside a couple of hundred metres above you. The spectacular mountain track of the Route de la Soif is a must do and the plateau de la Glières, with its memorial to the resistance fighters of the Second World War, is a stark reminder of this period in history. Bring a sense of adventure too, as some of the climbs can be a challenge and there are a couple of hike-a-bike sections to connect up the tracks on day three.

The terrain is a mix of road, smooth gravel, mountain gravel (rougher and more loose) and some steeper sections, both up and down. Confidence riding off-road tracks is required. 42-45mm tyres with good grip are ideal and some low gears make the climbs more user friendly.

This is a mountain environment with the higher trails beyond the tree line and fully exposed to the elements. Come prepared with appropriate clothing for the frequent and sometimes rapid changes in the weather. Even if the forecast is for clear skies, conditions can change daily! Bring some warm clothes for the evenings too. Both refuges have outdoor terraces with views across the surrounding landscapes – great spots to sit out as the sun sets.

I’d strongly recommend stopping at the la Cheminée restaurant in the small hamlet on the col des Anes. Although it’s early on the third day, it serves the most sumptuous blueberry tart. You’ll have earned it though, after the long climb up to the col.

Fuel well before starting this Tour as there’s a hefty amount of climbing on day one for its distance. It finishes at the mountain refuge at the col de l’Arpettaz. Day two is more relaxed, with less climbing (although it is steep at times) and distance to cover, finishing at the refuge de Bombardeliaz, built right into the mountainside. Day three is not dissimilar in altitude gain to day one, but over the longest distance of the three days. You’ll be glad to know though that there’s more down than up for this return to Talloires! Stay a night locally when you finish and enjoy a good breakfast at café Gisele followed by a dip in the lake, five minutes from the café.

Talloires is 13 kilometres (8 mi) from Annecy and a straightforward ride along a riverside cycle path. If driving, there’s limited parking in and in the immediate vicinity of Talloires. Accommodation within the village itself is also limited, but both parking and places to stay are plentiful within the wider area. Alternatively, there’s a large campsite near Talloires, next to the lake. In high season, you’ll need to book ahead for both the town and the refuges, although the best time of year to ride this route is in late spring/early summer (once the snow melts) and early autumn, working around the opening times of the refuges. Both of them have secure overnight bike storage.