A mountain bike adventure around Lac de Serre Ponçon

This Collection showcases a proper mountain bike route around the largest artificial lake in France – Serre Ponçon – which acts as the border between the departments of the Hautes Alpes and the Alpes de Haute Provence. The creation of the lake flooded two villages, yet a chapel still juts out from its waters, having been built on a hilltop. It can still be visited today by boat and on foot when the water levels are low enough.

The lake and surrounding mountains are a multi-sport mecca, with the Ecrins and Queyras national parks close by. Starting from the lakeside town of Embrun, this 156-kilometre (97 mi) route packs in a substantial 5,000 metres (16,404 ft) of climbing. Its terrain is a mix of forest tracks and alpine singletrack, linked together by short bouts of riding on local and occasionally, main roads. Some of the off-road is steep and technical so competent mountain bike skills are a must.

There's no shortage of high points from which to enjoy vistas of the lake's deep blue waters and wild, surrounding landscapes. The toughest section comes early as you travel through the Alpes de Haute Provence on the first day, where you'll crest the route's highest point at over 1,600 metres (5,250 ft). Most of the route is off-road and deliberately directional, the climbing mainly on non-technical terrain giving access to the copious amount of super fun singletrack trails along the way.

On the lake's western side, the terrain is less technically demanding as it passes through more rural countryside. When you cross back into the Hautes Alpes, you’ll return to mountainous landscapes.

The final day has its wild sections, taking you over the second highest point, as well as more rolling terrain that yo-yos between inland and coastal trails. The final switchback, singletrack descent will leave you with an enduring grin as you pedal the final few kilometres back to Embrun.

This route can be ridden anytime from spring through to late autumn as the region boasts over 300 days of sunshine a year. Snow rarely lingers as spring temperatures arrive much earlier than in the Alps’ northern reaches. Be mindful, however, that this is a very popular region for tourism during the high season. Subsequently, I suggest avoiding this route during this period if you want to enjoy quieter trails and less traffic. The summertime temperatures can also regularly exceed 30 degrees. There’s some shelter amongst the forest trails, but it’s limited. I’d recommend riding this route in late spring when it’s not overly hot or early autumn when the landscape’s colours are incredibly dramatic.

There’s ample opportunity tol resupply along the route as you'll regularly pass through villages and a couple of small towns, all with stores and cafés. Plus, you’ll find numerous water fountains en route. Two 750ml bottles will be plenty for carrying water, especially in the cooler periods.

The route splits are based around wild camping under the stars (which is tolerated so long as you leave no trace, set up later into the evening, leave by early morning and ideally outside of high season). Gite accommodation is available too If you prefer to ride light. You can stay in the small town of Lauzet-Ubaye on day one and in the mountainside village of Rousset on day two. Make sure you book ahead. There are campsites just outside of Le Lauzet-Ubaye and in La Viste. Either option would make days one and two longer, however.

Getting to Embrun with public transport is straightforward via train or bus (most inter-regional and national bus services will carry bikes). The Hautes Alpes is the only department in France without any motorways, so road travel is a little slower, but consequently more enjoyable. With its character and architecture well preserved, the old town of Embrun is a great place to base yourself. There’s a superb market every Wednesday and Saturday morning throughout the year.