A weekend off-road adventure around the Val d'Arly

Spending a weekend exploring this short loop gives you an insight into the wealth of the available riding around the Val d’Arly, without having to commit to big days in the saddle. Plus, you get a night out under the stars on a mountainside. It’s an area of deep valleys and mid-height peaks that feels remote and wild at times, situated between lake Annecy and the giants of the Mont Blanc massif. The route is split by the main road between Albertville and Chamonix, with its northern section dominated by the rugged peaks of the Aravis range and by the impressive landscape of the Beaufortain region to the south.

You’ll experience mountain gravel mixed with alpine trails. Ride along high ridgelines and sweeping switchbacks with gradients that’ll challenge both the legs and your descending skills. You’ll climb up to spots that have 360-degree views across spectacular alpine landscapes, with the snowy peaks of the Mont Blanc dominating the eastern skyline during the southern section.

It’s designated as a mountain bike route, but you could get away with riding it on a gravel bike if you’ve got confident off-road handling skills. I’d recommend a minimum 45mm tyre width too. Or, even better would be 650b wheels and wider tyres for added grip. Much of the riding is on non-technical tracks, although the gravel does get chunky and there are bouts of alpine singletrack that’ll require more deft handling, especially on a gravel bike.

The entire route is only 83 kilometres (52 mi), but you’ll climb over 3,500 metres (11,483 ft) in that distance, so bring some lower gear ratios. To pack that in, as alluded to, the terrain does get steep and there may be occasional hike-a-bike sections and some descents will have the adrenaline pumping. In the first few kilometres, you’ll get a feel for gradients as you head straight up from Le Plan. The first stage is all about two long ascents and big descents, with a 1,000 metre (3,280 ft) climb being the stage’s dominating feature, whereas stage two is more choppy, dipping up and down through valleyed terrain.

There are a number of spots for food and drinks along the route and the two main communes, Praz sur Arly on stage one (where you’ll have to make a minor detour) and Flumet on stage two have everything you’ll need, including water fountains. A great spot to stop for food or a sweet treat on stage one is at the ‘le Patafan’ mountain restaurant, just the other side of the top of the last climb.

Overnighting at the campsite l’Alpage des Jorets is the more adventurous option, a breathtaking location set into a mountainside at 1,700 metres (5,578 ft). Alternatively, you could travel light by starting in Praz sur Arly and overnighting in bricks and mortar accommodation in Flumet, approximately half way around. Either way, I’d recommend booking ahead. Access to Praz sur Arly is easier than getting to Le Plan if you’re not driving, as there are buses that stop here, which travel up from Sallanches train station. Then it’s a 15 kilometre (9.3 mi) road ride to Le Plan. There’s plenty of parking in Le Plan, although this can become congested in the high season.

This route can be ridden in late spring (depending on snow conditions), summer and into autumn, when the colours of the mountain foliage will be spectacular. If you want to use the mountain cafés and the campsite, check exact seasonal opening times, as most of them will be from mid-June to mid-September only.