Beauty and the beastly black ridge – hiking on the Isle of Skye

Where the UK is concerned, nowhere is the scenery as spectacular as the Isle of Skye. From the iconic Black Cuillin mountains and the otherworldly landscapes of the Trotternish range to its stunning coastline and magnificent wildlife, Skye really is something else.

It’s an island of harsh beauty, ferocious weather, forged by immense natural forces. It’s a place shaped by the people who’ve settled here, as well as the tragedy of the eviction of many who once called it home to make way for sheep during the Highland Clearances. It’s a storied landscape, rich in the reverence of those who’ve laid eyes upon its forms. From the Picts and the Gaels to the Vikings and the menagerie of folk who live here today, Skye’s inhabitants have always had tales to tell, art to share, songs to sing, all inspired by the island’s natural splendour.

As a mere visitor, I’ve seen eagles dive from Blà Bheinn’s gully-riven turrets, to rise and float above a molten Glen Sligachan. I’ve watched a sea of cloud broil beneath mighty Sgùrr nan Gillean’s dagger summit. I’ve slept to the sound of Loch Scavaig’s waves breaking and retreating over Camasunary Bay’s pebbles. I’m enraptured by the island and the experiences it provides.

This Collection features eight magnificent hiking routes that give a flavour of what Skye has to offer yet merely scratches the surface of the island’s adventure potential. The hikes are ordered broadly in terms of challenge, with the easier outings coming first and the more challenging mountain days at the end.

Six of the routes are based around the Black Cuillin, Skye’s crowning glory. Many routes on Britain’s youngest and most formidable mountain range are the preserve of experienced scramblers and climbers, though the adventures detailed in this Collection are suitable for all reasonably fit walkers. The Bruach na Frithe route involves some mostly avoidable scrambling on its northwest ridge, while the ascent of the jagged Sgùrr nan Gillean requires difficult (at least grade two), if short-lived, scrambling. The two hikes away from the Cuillin, the Storr and the Quiraing, explore the spectacular Trotternish Ridge, the result of a monumental ancient landslip.

Skye’s Gaelic name is Eilean a’ Cheò – the island of the mist. This gives a clue as to the character of Skye’s weather, which is notoriously changeable and at the full mercy of weather systems coming in from the Atlantic. Carry waterproofs and warm layers, even when wall-to-wall sunshine is forecast, and I’d also recommend waterproof hiking footwear. Sun protection and midge repellent are essential in the warmer months, while it’s also prudent to carry a tick twister to deal with any unwanted hitchhikers. It’s best to cover exposed skin to avoid this occurrence.

The ideal time to go is late spring, as you’ll avoid the busier summer season and the dreaded midges. Autumn is also a good shout, though it tends to be wetter than spring and summer. On a good day, winter can be glorious. However, weather conditions will often be challenging, accommodation options more limited and the mountain routes require mountaineering skills and equipment.

There’s a wealth of accommodation on the island, though it’s worth booking well in advance. The town of Portree is the capital and is a good base with plenty of amenities. It’s just a short drive from both the Cuillin and Trotternish ranges.

Thanks to the Skye Bridge, which opened in 1995 and connects the island to the Scottish mainland, Skye is relatively easy to access by road. Once on the island, the easiest way to get around is by car. You can also reach the island via coach services from Glasgow and Inverness, or by taking a train from Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsh, and then hopping on a bus, or from Glasgow to Mallaig, where you can board a ferry.